Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Stepping into the real steel world?

Just recently I started researching different guns for someone getting into real steel and ended up coming to a finally decision of getting a .22. The only thing is, there are quite a few .22's on the market and just about every major company makes them as well as some smaller companies. I did quite a bit of research and weeded out the good, the bad and the ugly fairly quickly. The Remington 597, Marlin 795 and the good ole' Ruger 10/22 ended up at the top of my list. Now I know I'm going to get a few people saying, "my Mossberg .22 has ran flawlessly since I bought it" and I don't doubt it has but when it comes to a proven track record of thousands of rounds and millions of owners, you can't really beat that.

Once I had the three main guns I was going to compare, I started with price (because that would be the biggest decision in what I buy). I didn't want to cheap out and get something because it was the cheapest, I wanted to get something that would be worth the money and then some. I wanted something I wasn't going to have to buy and then drop a lot of upgrades into it to make it shoot the way it should have out of the box (adding on cost to the initial purchase). Starting with the Ruger 10/22. Out of the box, it has a fairly good trigger, good accuracy, reliable magazines as well as a bolt hold open feature. I did quite a bit on this gun alone finding out the good and bad of it. Out of the box, I was pretty much going to have to do some trigger modifications as well as drill in an over-travel screw (optional). Then I found out that the accuracy isn't the best in the world and that I would want to upgrade the barrel out of the box if I was aiming for accuracy (which I was). At this point, the Ruger 10/22 was just screaming project gun in the making and at a ballpark price of $250, it wasn't looking like this would be my gun of choice. I will however say that the Ruger factory 10 round magazines are very good and everyone swears buy them. On top of that, Ruger also has 25 round high capacity magazines that are just as good as the rounders'. Once again, I will probably have someone tell me that I can pick up an old 10/22 for around $100 from a pawn shop and use that as my base for the project gun. This idea did cross my mind but you have to be there at the right place, at the right time or you'll never get one. Once they come in the door, the owner is already calling someone they know to come pick it up or it's already walking out the door. Another reason why I thought about this was that the old Ruger 10/22's had a metal trigger guard instead of the polymer one that everyone complains about that is on there now. In the end, owning a gun is all based on how it holds in your hand and if you like it. I went to my local sporting goods store and held the gun in person and I just couldn't stand it. The stock was nice and comfortable around the butt but once it got around the magwell, it was a little too fat for what I liked. It felt a little bulky to me and I really just didn't like that feeling at all. Others may like the look and feel of the Ruger 10/22 and if that's your cup of tea, then stick to it. I personally just didn't like the look and feel of the gun as well as having to upgrade it out of the box just to have it shoot what it needs to for that price.


On to the Remington 597. This gun really impressed me as far as aesthetics. It was a full sized rifle and quite a bit bigger than most other .22's. I never got to hold the gun in person because of one reason. One of the biggest complains of most Remington owners was that the magazines weren't reliable and there weren't that many aftermarket magazines that were any better. Since this is the thing that will be feeding bullets into the gun, you really don't want to have something unreliable whether that be competition shooting or a life and death situation. This just about ruled out the gun for me off the bat which was the main reason why I never pursued it any further to the point of wanting ti hold it in person. Things may have changed since I last looked at the Remington 597 so if they have, feel free to let me know so I can better refer people to the gun. If there hasn't been any improvements, it'll stay on the DON'T BUY list. From what I know, there aren't that many aftermarket parts for it so you pretty much are stuck with what you get out of the box. That was another reason what I wasn't drawn to the gun, there was nothing to improve the problems that it did have so you were pretty much stuff if you did buy it. If the mags were fixed, I think the gun would be a good buy for a larger sized .22 at a ballpark prize of $175.


Now for the last gun I looked at, the Marlin 795. Overall, this was the gun I ended up choosing because it filled in just about every gap that the others left open. The Marlin is accurate right out of the box with an 18in blued barrel, has a good trigger, has a last shot hold open (like a bolt catch for an AR) as well as very reliable magazines for a ballpark price of $150 (In 2011 however, Marlin had a $20 rebate for the blued barrel 795 and they were just about ALWAYS on sale, sadly though, I only started researching .22's at the last few months of 2011). The gun does have a Polymer trigger guard like the newer Ruger 10/22's though. Marlin made the switch along with many other companies a few years back (most likely to cut production cost and not to "improve performance" like many companies have said). Out of the box, the gun has a thick 18in blued barrel. The barrel is plenty thick for a .22. If you were to compare, it would probably be between a regular barrel and a bull barrel. On top of that, it has a fairly good trigger. With a little bit of polishing the sears, you can bring the trigger pull down some as well as cut out the mushiness of the trigger. With that said however, there aren't that many aftermarket parts compared to the Ruger 10/22. There are stocks available as well as peep sights and a few others odds and ends. There is a website called DIP that makes a lot of aftermarket parts for the Marlin series of rifles. Everything from trigger kits to golden charging handles. With the extra money I saved buy buying the Marlin, I can drop in an upgraded trigger and have one very accurate rifle and still end up under the base price of the Ruger. If I decided to go the DIY route, I can do all the modifications in the book and still come out with a really nice trigger pull. Last shot hold open is a really nice feature that I have come to appreciate. One of the biggest problems with rim fire rifles in general is having the bolt slam into the chamber while dry firing and slowly eat away at the chamber which will cause the rifle to not be able to eject the shells properly (or for that matter, at all). The last shot hold open allows me to visually see that I am out of rounds and that I have to reload. It also keep me from continuing to fire and slowly eat away at the chamber (like I explained before). Also, There's nothing more satisfying than chambering a round and hearing the bolt slam forward once you hit the lever. The only real downside I found is that the stock is a little small for me and it feels like a BB gun but I have slowly started to like the small and light weight feeling of the stock. I will however in the future switch it out for a Boyd's Stock because you just can't beat a nice wood laminate stock (it will also bulk up the gun just a bit to make it feel more like a rifle and not a BB gun). Only other complaint I have (which is more opinion than anything) is that there are only 7 round and 10 round magazines. EVERY aftermarket high capacity magazine to date is just pure garbage so it would be nice if Marlin would come out with a high capacity magazine for those of use that get a little trigger happy from time to time. The 10 round magazines feed flawless though so I'll pick a few up here soon and just run those until a good high capacity magazine comes out.

Here's a quick picture after I threw a scope on the gun. A little over kill if you ask me but I got it for a good deal so it'll have to do for now...


Another reason I ended up going with Marlin was that I received an old Marlin Lever Action from the 1800's that was a family heirloom as well as my grandfather having a Marlin Model 81 Bolt Action that has been through hell and back and is still firing accurately with only a sticky bolt. I guess I'm keeping the Marlin tradition going!

If you would like to see more of these real steel related posts as well as many of my other topics, feel free to subscribe to my blog or follow my blog so you won't miss a post. Thanks for reading!

-Fluffy









Sunday, March 25, 2012

How to Fix Your WE or SOCOM Gear 1911 Two Piece Pistol Outer Barrel

Lately I've gotten quite a few people asking how to fix the two piece outer barrel on the WE/SOCOM Gear 1911's after I posted a video showing the gun functioning perfectly fine. I thought I would take some time out to make a quick tutorial on how to fix the problem yourself and not have to shell out the cash for a Marui one piece outer barrel.

I was actually quite surprised as to how easy this was. I was originally going to pick up a used Marui one piece and then someone mentioned to me just gluing it back together. I went back and forth on this because I wasn't sure if that would fix the problem when the problem actually comes from WE/SOCOM Gear gluing the barrels from the factory. Then someone suggested JB Weld and I just happened to have some of the Harbor Freight Quick Drying Epoxy on hand so I gave it a try and it worked!

It's pretty much common knowledge to use JB Weld to get the barrel to hold together correctly but I thought I would pass the idea along just in case it hadn't crossed someone else's mind.

Feel free to leave me some feedback and let me know if this helped.
Thanks!





Sunday, March 18, 2012

Daniel Defense RIS II Installation Guide

Lately I've gotten a few questions about the installation process for the Daniel Defense MK18/M4A1 RIS II so I thought I'd make a guide for anyone that wanted to know how to install the rail.

Things you will need for this installation:
(1) One Size 5/32 Allen Key
(1) One Size 3 Allen Key
*Optional but highly recommended*
(1) One Daniel Defense Barrel Nut Wrench
















First you will need to slide the locking collar all the way down to where it is flush with the upper of the gun. Make sure the two pieces on the locking collar are on either side of the body.






































Now that you have the locking collar on, make sure that the barrel nut has the lip side up and slide it down the barrel onto the locking collar like so: 




Make sure to torque the barrel nut down to where the locking collar has no side to side play at all or your rail system with have a lot of wobble.
























Before you move to the next step, look at your locking collar and make sure that it is straight and flush with the upper receiver. If the locking collar is not flush, it will cause the rail to be crooked when you are finished. To correct this, simply loosen the barrel nut and adjust the locking collar to the correct position.

At this point, you can go ahead and install your gas tube/gas block if needed. If not, proceed to the next step.

If you've tightened down the barrel nut as much as you possibly can and you still have some side to side play on the locking collar, try slipping an o-ring down between the barrel nut and locking collar. This will close the gap between the two and keep the collar from moving. Use a small screw driver to slowly push the o-ring over the threads of the barrel instead of trying to use the barrel nut to force it down into the gap.














Now that you have the barrel nut and locking collar in place, go ahead and slide the rail system down the barrel and line up the screw holes. If you haven't already, go ahead and separate the lower rail from the rail system which will allow you to screw in the two bottom screws. Make sure that you have all your screws going in the right direction for the best fit.

Using the 5/32 Allen Key, go ahead and screw the (6) six screws in like so:







































Once you have all the screws in place, go ahead and install the lower rail. 














Make sure that the tabs on the lower rail and the cut outs on the rail system line up or the bottom rail won't be able to install. It's almost fool proof but just in case you missed it, here you go...



























Using the #3 Allen Key, install the (6) six screws on both the left and right side of the rail (three screws to each side). 







































You're done! Here's what your final product should look like:












































































































I hope this guide helped some of you that were having problems with installation or just wanted to see what the installation process is like. I would highly recommend picking this rail up if you're wanting to change up the look of your standard AR variant!

If you're more of a video person and prefer that over standard blog style guides, I got ya covered!
Feel free to leave me feedback! 
Thanks!

Friday, January 27, 2012

Welcome to my Blog!

The longer I have been doing YouTube, the more I have realized that I need somewhere to publish things I wouldn't necessarily publish in video format. With a blog, I'm able to go into far more detail on things than I would with a video. I will continue to do my reviews, how-to videos and unboxings but for the small things that I won't be doing reviews on or used things I just can't do proper reviews on, this is a great domain to do them.

If you'd like to stay up to date with reviews on products I purchase, detailed picture guides on field stripping guns, gear reviews and get my .02 on things, feel free to follow me on this blog!